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Unforgettable journey into the Sacred Valley of the Incas

04 March 2016

I thought for this new post to make a grand tour of the Sacred Valley, say that is over 100 kilometers from Pisaq to Aguas Calientes to the edge of the Vilcanota River, there are rich good climate and growing corn. But the truth is that it sounds to Wikipedia and you, dear lelos, deserve more. So I sat in front of a mountain, Apu Chicón to expect some revelation and remembered that all I have to do is tell an experience, because only then can we have valley where we are.


There are a lot of parallel grooves. It is the we all know, the Cusco city, with its mad revelry, the stone of 12 angles and Saqsaywaman. Cusco is the Valley, that dream green carpet just 40 minutes from the city. There is another Cusco, little explored, which deserve a separate post: the Amazon Cusco, fruits and warm people sayonaras. And there is more. But this is about the Cusco Valley.

I arrived at the Sacred Valley for the first time in 2010. I came just to do an interview to a known ceramist named Pablo Seminario, Urubamba resident. This time I went to his shop, a cozy little hole with window to the mountains and told me that every day felt inspired with that view. In addition, he told me that he did not live in Urubamba, but in "The Medaganal" or where does what he wants.

I look at some later time that walking through the town of Maras, in the afternoon after a beer watching the cattle on a farm, feeling combined air stool air of freedom and feel really happy. Or experience the sunset from the terraces of Chinchero, believing that every dream will be fulfilled in the world, or down the terraces of Pisaq and hear a distant flute as another dimension. I see myself taking a chicha with my best friend Yucay way and then stepping in the mud of the field at night. I hear the toads.

After three years in Cusco today I feel like trout in the river. Now I live in Urubamba and it is amazing to see how changes everything with a few meters less altitude. The climate is quite different from 2,700 and not 3,400 meters, hot afternoon, cool at night.

So far my short stay in the valley have already taken more beer than I took in my life. Urubamba is reputed to produce the best corn in the world, therefore, chicha is the best. (Soon Chicha for specialized post lelos). The last time I was home with my house talking afternoon, taking chicha with calatos feet on the ground and I forgot all my problems.

The day passes in slow motion. I have no time for me to write, to watch the afternoon with coffee, for cooking, laughing, immersed in my own "Medaganal". For example, today we build a chair. The other time we turned around the house to see rays. Easily imagine the Inca coming for the first time, see the Vilcanota and how life grows, feel warmth, mountains with snow and say good guys, it's here. In fact, many Incas set official residence in the valley, not only because of its benefits for existence in general, but because the Vilcanota River was the earthly copy of the Milky Way (Wilcamayu, the Sacred River), as we saw in our previous post of the map above on the map below. The valley was the cosmic axis of the empire and everyone wanted to be hovering within it.}

In my case, I confess that I have wept recently returning from Cusco to Urubamba cottage. He was on the road and do not know why, but I was very excited seeing the mountains, to the point that caused me to climb them all. I take a few weeks training me to recognize them by name. Chicon is the Pumahuanca, the Apu Saywa, the Pitusiray, the Sawasiray and on the other side, the beautiful Veronica. If we are lucky and is clear, you can see to the Salcantay. I'm not sure how to explain this, but their presence revolutionizes me. I'm sure, lelos, you understand.

The Sacred Valley is Sacred. Recently a farmer told me that the field is happiness and here only talk about vegetables. Miguel, my neighbor told me that in Pallqaraqi (tiny town of Urubamba where I live) nobody is orphaned because if they touch the door give matecito, whatever you need. When you're in the chichería you fill the glass until revientes because they want a good time, do not forget that night. A few nights ago Huayno danced with a lady with a tooth and said in his Castilian "aquechuado" ¡isto es lo que nos vamos a llevar a la tumba, no la rshopa, sino la filicidad!

My suggestion is not to take any agency, come on your own and do your thing. I know sometimes you come for three days, maybe five or a week and that time flies in Cusco. I know you want to see everything and if you already saw it, watch it again, right? My suggestion is to choose a place that calls you (actually the people discover us) and you find yourself with him and in him. I swear that when you meet a well in Cusco you are knowing everything, because it is, they are parallel and lelos Cuscos.

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